One of the poorest areas of Istanbul, the Kurdish neighborhood was built secretively, in three nights. At dark, the Kurds erected hundreds of makeshift houses. The building ceased once the government caught on and cracked down–well, tried to crack down. The Kurds had come prepared to defend their land, and after a decade of armed conflict, their neighborhood remains, sitting right on prime Istanbul real estate. It is supported by the municipality, but barely. The neighborhood features rolling blackouts, a spotty water supply, and 65,000 people sharing a single, tiny hospital. The residents are shy and keep to their colorful homes. A police tank is still parked on the street–an artifact of the neighborhood’s strife-ridden beginnings.